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- Steam Controller Configuration Guide
Go to config controller (in Steam Big Picture). At the bottom, it says press X to browse configs. Press X or click on it. You can then select community configs. Go to config controller (in Steam Big Picture). At the bottom, it says press X to browse configs. Press X or click on it. You can then select community configs. Dolphin Controller Configuration. To open and manage the controller settings for Dolphin, from the Dolphin's main window, navigate to Options -> Controller Settings, or simply click the 'Controllers' button. The main controller configuration window will appear, as seen in the screenshot below.
Getting the most out of your steam controller for Elite requires custom in game bindings.This guide provides the ones required for my first setup and a look at its capabilities and shortcomings.
This is a copy from over here.
Configuration
To get this configuration you will need to download and use these custom bindings inside the game and load the Steam Falcon MkIb from the community configurations in the steam overlay.
template by courtesy of /u/MagicBigfoot
template by courtesy of /u/MagicBigfoot
Preface
This configuration is coming from someone who has played Elite Dangerous with a snes, xbox and gamecube controller (last being my favourite despite few buttons) and no additional input methods besides a keyboard for typing (such as head tracking or voice commands). So I am very used to dealing with very few buttons and a lot of input combinations, but I also highly value as many analog inputs as I can get and having headlook at my finger tips. So this configuration is optimized for that.
The steam controller hardware supports up to 11 analog outputs, but unfortunately the software currently only outputs those to a maximum of 8 (traditional xinput controller and a mouse). The original plan was to use the gyro for all ship rotations. Again unfortunately you can only get two analog outputs from it at a time. Software limitations on both steam and game end forced me to fall back to solutions used on the gamecube controller. But fortunately the trackpads and additional buttons still make for a much better experience.
The steam controller hardware supports up to 11 analog outputs, but unfortunately the software currently only outputs those to a maximum of 8 (traditional xinput controller and a mouse). The original plan was to use the gyro for all ship rotations. Again unfortunately you can only get two analog outputs from it at a time. Software limitations on both steam and game end forced me to fall back to solutions used on the gamecube controller. But fortunately the trackpads and additional buttons still make for a much better experience.
Movement
The most important part for any configuration I start with. And I need it all. For comfortability reasons and how everything else is set up I had to revert to throttle increments (A/B) instead of finally also having analog forward and backward thrust. Everything else is at your fingertips though.
pitch and yaw
As the main method of aiming this is on the stick. To have the mouse widget as a center point at all times I had to output it to the mouse though, which required a lot of funky anti dead zone settings for decent sensitivity. The result isn't quite as good as using an actual stick, because the stick output will fight against the mouse decay (visible on half tilt as the mouse widget will jitter back and forth). Thus your output won't flick back to zero quite as fast as the physical stick, resulting in a bit of drag. A short flick in the opposite direction can counter this though and the difference to a direct stick output is pleasently small to begin with.
roll
Roll uses the analog triggers. This isn't normally possible with Elite, because an axis cannot usually be split (SRV throttle being an exception). So I made one of both triggers toggle to alternate flight controls, where the same trigger ouput is used in reverse. I've attempted this with other controllers before, but the dead zone on them was always too large to make significant use of the toggling trigger. The toggling trigger still isn't quite as sensitive as the other and has priority over it, but having analog roll is still better than being limited to digital inputs.
vertical, lateral and boost
These all made it onto the right touch pad. The click itself is the boost and being quite a unique action on the controller this makes for a rather safe input (had no accidental boosts yet). To make for an easy straight boost or just resting your thumb, ready for strafing, the dead zone in the middle is quite large. To compensate for the lost area and easily allowing very fine movement as well as full throttle in any direction the ranges themselves are relaxed (wider on the inside, approaching 100% more quickly towards the edge). This is the one thing I've spend most time tweaking and I mostly use rather fast ships myself. So depending on your ships and thumb you may want to adjust it.
pitch and yaw
As the main method of aiming this is on the stick. To have the mouse widget as a center point at all times I had to output it to the mouse though, which required a lot of funky anti dead zone settings for decent sensitivity. The result isn't quite as good as using an actual stick, because the stick output will fight against the mouse decay (visible on half tilt as the mouse widget will jitter back and forth). Thus your output won't flick back to zero quite as fast as the physical stick, resulting in a bit of drag. A short flick in the opposite direction can counter this though and the difference to a direct stick output is pleasently small to begin with.
roll
Roll uses the analog triggers. This isn't normally possible with Elite, because an axis cannot usually be split (SRV throttle being an exception). So I made one of both triggers toggle to alternate flight controls, where the same trigger ouput is used in reverse. I've attempted this with other controllers before, but the dead zone on them was always too large to make significant use of the toggling trigger. The toggling trigger still isn't quite as sensitive as the other and has priority over it, but having analog roll is still better than being limited to digital inputs.
vertical, lateral and boost
These all made it onto the right touch pad. The click itself is the boost and being quite a unique action on the controller this makes for a rather safe input (had no accidental boosts yet). To make for an easy straight boost or just resting your thumb, ready for strafing, the dead zone in the middle is quite large. To compensate for the lost area and easily allowing very fine movement as well as full throttle in any direction the ranges themselves are relaxed (wider on the inside, approaching 100% more quickly towards the edge). This is the one thing I've spend most time tweaking and I mostly use rather fast ships myself. So depending on your ships and thumb you may want to adjust it.
Headlook
Another very important feature to me.
Usually a direct stick output has the best performance, but that requires taking your fingers off other controls. Also the better mouse headlook disables the nifty mouse widget on use, so that's why I stuck with the only working relative 'camera' (right) stick output. It's not as sensitive as I'd like it to be for tiny movements, but along with the quick reset and not clashing with any other inputs it works rather well. Most of the time you will only want to use it for a short movement to angle your view and reset it upon needing your entire HUD back. But in super cruise it is quite a treat to hold it on for constantly keeping things in view.
Usually a direct stick output has the best performance, but that requires taking your fingers off other controls. Also the better mouse headlook disables the nifty mouse widget on use, so that's why I stuck with the only working relative 'camera' (right) stick output. It's not as sensitive as I'd like it to be for tiny movements, but along with the quick reset and not clashing with any other inputs it works rather well. Most of the time you will only want to use it for a short movement to angle your view and reset it upon needing your entire HUD back. But in super cruise it is quite a treat to hold it on for constantly keeping things in view.
Essentials
On top of movement and view there are tons of frequent actions that require quick and easy access. So these are directly bound to buttons (such as bumpers for firing, start for both FSD actions, diamond for targeting/throttle/weapons/scooping). Most of these don't require to be held like the fire buttons, so taking your thumb of other controls for a short moment is an acceptable deficiency. To make that time as short as possible for power management on the left pad you can click and hold the pad to move pips around very rapidly.
Auxiliaries
With all that done Elite still leaves you with tons of possible additional inputs. And many of them can be extremely useful. So I collected them onto a touch menu on the right pad. You can cram up to 16 actions on there, but I decided to keep it simple with just 9.
The most obvious one is the landing gear, previously on a dedicated modified button. But I figured it's not really used very frequently or in crucial situations, so I put it at the top here for easy take off.
Around that the scanner zoom is most useful for surface scavenging in both ship and SRV, but having control over it can be useful in other situations as well. You can click and hold both to zoom all the way in or out without clicking the pad multiple times.
The additional target buttons are very useful for checking out all present ships without going through your target panel to the left or pointing at them one by one. This too can be held down to cycle through without constant clicking.
The target next system in route is in the center to accompany the boost in case of an escape. It will also charge the frame shift drive right away. No more fumbling through the navigation panel to find, select and engage a jump out. It is also very useful to quickly make a small detour within a system between jumps and resume your journey right away.
The remaining features are mostly there to keep fire groups clean of utilities and having a quick access to silent running. You may want to swap or extend some of this for shield cell banks or other things.
Maps
Navigating maps can be a bit awkward with this configuration due to the stick mouse. To still make it usable I made the stick click toggle vertical movement and rotation as well as enabling either drag rotation or movement on the right pad click (depending on stick toggle).
Zoom is on the triggers and the remaining UI controls are as usual. So it still works rather well once you get used to flinging around a mouse occasionally.
Zoom is on the triggers and the remaining UI controls are as usual. So it still works rather well once you get used to flinging around a mouse occasionally.
SRV
The SRV mimics the ship controls for the most part. Except you have full throttle control on the triggers and roll instead of yaw.
The thrusters are on B and the hand brake is on A.
Also steering flips over to the gyro in turret mode, because neither the gyro headlook nor the right pad configuration work too well for full 360 degrees.
The thrusters are on B and the hand brake is on A.
Also steering flips over to the gyro in turret mode, because neither the gyro headlook nor the right pad configuration work too well for full 360 degrees.
MkIa (2.2 update)
2.2 broke a few ship panel functions of the MkI version, which are fixed with the MkIa version.
Additionally the autofire functions on the right touchpad are sped up and the full pull actions of the triggers now function as fire button toggles. This is useful when you need to keep your weapons going while chatting, selecting sub targets or managing your ship systems.
Additionally the autofire functions on the right touchpad are sped up and the full pull actions of the triggers now function as fire button toggles. This is useful when you need to keep your weapons going while chatting, selecting sub targets or managing your ship systems.
MkIb (2.3 update)
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2.3 has most notably introduced the gunner role in multi-crew and expanded external camera controls.
I'm pretty happy with the gunner controls. You engage the external view with the start button, look around with the stick or the gyro and zoom in and out with the right pad or triggers. The additional two utility fires are on A and X.
The new external camera has once again run me into the usual hard and software limitations, this time with less available work arounds.
The only available split axis is the camera lift, but I absolutely did not want to put that onto the triggers and rather tried to match the ship controls.
The various toggles are replacing the ship panel inputs, since you don't use them in an external view. This way you can still fully control your ship.
I'm pretty happy with the gunner controls. You engage the external view with the start button, look around with the stick or the gyro and zoom in and out with the right pad or triggers. The additional two utility fires are on A and X.
The new external camera has once again run me into the usual hard and software limitations, this time with less available work arounds.
The only available split axis is the camera lift, but I absolutely did not want to put that onto the triggers and rather tried to match the ship controls.
The various toggles are replacing the ship panel inputs, since you don't use them in an external view. This way you can still fully control your ship.
Trouble shooting
If you have set everything up as instructed, but only parts of the control scheme seem to work (the overlay for the right touchpad coming up for example, but buttons and triggers not responding) you most likely have a different steam controller device than me.
To fix this, first enter the exact same button in the games control options on the secondary input for one of those that don't work - let's say the A button for 'Set Speed to 0%' (so it says A twice, next to each other). Save that and close the game.
Now you can open the binds file and locate that double entry ('<SetSpeedZero>').
Copy the Secondary Device value and replace all instances of the Primary Device value noted in that entry. This should enable all buttons to work with your steam controller.
Alternatively you can also manually input everything in that secondary column, but with a few multiple binding activators that may be a more troublesome process (switching to a default controller in the steam overlay would make this part easier - then switching back once you have mirrored everything using your device).
To fix this, first enter the exact same button in the games control options on the secondary input for one of those that don't work - let's say the A button for 'Set Speed to 0%' (so it says A twice, next to each other). Save that and close the game.
Now you can open the binds file and locate that double entry ('<SetSpeedZero>').
Copy the Secondary Device value and replace all instances of the Primary Device value noted in that entry. This should enable all buttons to work with your steam controller.
Alternatively you can also manually input everything in that secondary column, but with a few multiple binding activators that may be a more troublesome process (switching to a default controller in the steam overlay would make this part easier - then switching back once you have mirrored everything using your device).
Valve’s self-branded Steam Controller might just be the most exciting thing to emerge in video game inputs in a decade…but that doesn’t mean it’s intuitive to set up. Just as the double-touchpad design takes some getting used to, its software needs some serious tweaking by the end user.
Get Comfy with Big Picture Mode and Pair Your Controller
Unfortunately, the Steam Controller can only be adjusted in Steam’s TV-friendly Big Picture Mode. Valve is probably hoping to promote SteamOS and Steam Link streaming device, but it effectively means that normal PC users are forced into a game console-style interface for adjusting their Steam Controller settings. So, to begin the process, you’ll have to use your mouse to click on the Big Picture Mode button at the top right corner of the desktop Steam interface.
Freecorder 4 toolbar free download. If you haven’t connected the controller yet, plug in its wireless USB dongle, then click or select the “Settings” icon in Big Picture Mode (the gear icon on the top right) followed by “Controller Settings.”
Click “Add a Steam Controller” to begin the wireless connection process, then press and hold the central Steam button and the X button on the Controller itself. It should appear under the “Detected Controllers” section of the screen.
Now things get considerably less intuitive. Back out of the Settings menu with Escape (or the B button on the controller) until you’re back in the main Big Picture Mode interface.
Tweak Your Settings for Individual Games
Next, click or select the central “Library” option in Big Picture Mode, then click on any game you have installed to go into its individual menu. On the left-hand column, click “Manage Game.”
Click “Controller Configuration” in the next menu. (If you don’t see it, make sure the Steam Controller is powered on.)
Now you’ve finally arrived at the primary button configuration screen. All of the operations below can be set up for each individual game in your Steam library.
(You can also get here while playing any Steam game—simply press and hold the center Steam button.)
Customize Basic Buttons
In most games, the Steam Controller will default to an Xbox-style layout, with the setup following the standard interface and the left touchpad area doubling as a right joystick input. Clicking on any of the buttons in this screen will open up custom assignment options, as seen below.
Any button on the Steam Controller can be manually bound to almost any input on your computer. This includes any other button on the Steam Controller, any default keyboard or mouse button, and special actions like taking a screenshot or even powering down the computer. To bind a single button, just click it in this screen and press Escape or B to go back. This is all most users will need when trying to redefine core gaming functions to the controller.
Create Multi-Button Combos
To bind multiple commands to a single button in this interface, click “Toggle Multi-Button On” or press the Y button on the controller. Then click as many buttons as you’d like in sequence.
The binding will press all of these buttons at the same time—for example, a “rocket jump” bind might be useful for activating both the right trigger (fire) and A (jump) button at once. Bind it to the right bumper and you’ll have an instant rocket jump button, no reflexes required.
![Controller Controller](/uploads/1/2/6/5/126557751/410999882.jpg)
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Of course, there are a limited amount of buttons on the Steam Controller to bind, so you’ll have to choose carefully if you’re adding custom combinations…unless you want to dig a little deeper.
Give Buttons More Actions with Activators
The Steam Controller’s Activators options are where things start to get really interesting…and tricky. Activators allow you to create conditional states to a button, making it do different things based on the timing of your press. You can activate the modified state with the Activation Type menu:
- Regular Press: a simple press and release action, a normal button.
- Double Press: a quick double-tap of a button. Think of it as the difference between a normal click and a double-click on the desktop.
- Long Press: press and hold the button.
- Start Press and Release Press: conditional actions for when you press and release the button. These are less useful.
![How To Download Steam Controller Configs How To Download Steam Controller Configs](/uploads/1/2/6/5/126557751/440191464.jpg)
Activators basically let you roll your own interface design. The conditional presses of these buttons can be bound to any button, key, or combination, just like the regular button combinations, and the modified states can be set to active or passive with the “Toggle” option.
Steam
The Cycle Binding option allows users to fire all of the Activator functions at once or in sequence. The Hold To Repeat option allows you to set a repeat rate (or not), in what used to be called a “turbo” mode. For example, if you’ve bound the Activator to the “Fire” button in a shooter, holding it down with Hold To Repeat set to “Off” will only fire once, while setting it to “On” will pull the trigger multiple times. This is a good way to input simple, repetitive actions or combos faster than would be possible on your own.
The Steam Controller’s “Bumper” buttons, the left and right plastic paddles formed by the battery cover on the back of the case, are especially good for this kind of Activator button input. Binding complex operations to simple press, hold, and double-tap actions can give you many more input options in a conventional controller-operated game.
Customize the Joystick and Touchpads
Most of the time, if you’re playing a game designed for a standard controller, you won’t need to mess with the joystick or touchpads much—just let them use their default operations. But adjusting a mouse-based game for the joystick and touchpads can be advantageous; it’s basically what the Steam Controller is designed to do. First of all, the “Style of Input” option allows you to select from a series of joystick, mouse, or button operations for all three of these regions:
- Directional Pad: the joystick or touchpad will act like an old-fashioned D-Pad, up, down, left, and right, with no analog input in between. The left touchpad, with its direction grooves, is designed specifically for this mode.
- Button Pad: the four directions will be bound to specific buttons, combos, or activators. Good for selecting through an inventory.
- Joystick Move: standard joystick operation. An extra button can be bound to the outer ring of the joystick, but not the touchpads.
- Joystick Mouse: the joystick or touchpads control an on-screen mouse cursor with directional input only, console-style.
- Scroll Wheel: “rolling” the wheel clockwise or counter-clockwise will work like a mouse wheel.
- Mouse Region: this binds the touchpad or joystick to a specific boundary box on the screen, where it works like a mouse cursor within that limitation. Boundary boxes can be set to the whole screen (good for top-down games with map controls) or merely a portion (good for individual character controls in MOBAs).
- Radial Menu : similar to Button Pad, but allows players to define up to five “buttons” activated by touching or tilting in a specific direction. Good for on-the-fly activation of special actions.
Extra actions can be bound to the “click” function of each touchpad and the central joystick click (the “L3” button in console terms).
https://supernalnic889.weebly.com/ancient-domains-of-mystery-download.html. In addition, the touchpads feature the following extra operations:
- Mouse: standard mouse operation, like a touchpad on a laptop. Trackball mode lets the pads act like a “rolling” ball for the cursor rather than a static pointer.
- Joystick Camera: works like a third-person camera in a console action game.
- Touch Menu: shows an on-screen menu with multiple button actions bound to specific regions of the touchpad. This is good for group assignments in strategy games.
- Single button: the entire pad operates as a single button. Actions can be bound to simply touching the pad or also “clicking” it.
Steam Controller Manual
You can see how things can get complex quickly—but it can be very useful.
Customize the Triggers
The left trigger and right trigger are a bit more complicated than they seem, because these buttons combine two kinds of input: an analog “pull” action that can be soft or hard depending on how far they’re depressed, and a full “click” action at the end of the pull. Both the Full Pull and the Soft Pull settings can be manually set to any of the buttons, combos, or Activator actions outlined above.
The “Soft Pull Trigger Style,” “Trigger Range Start,” “Soft Pull Point,” and “Trigger Range End” settings will all help you adjust the timing and intensity of the soft trigger mode activation. They’re fairly self-explanatory, but you may need to do some in-game testing to see what setup works best for you, especially if you’re trying to perform actions outside of the usual shoot/gas/brake/modifier button defaults in most action games.
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Most games will have fairly obvious uses for the triggers: primary and secondary weapons in shooter games, gas and brake in racing games, modifiers in beat-em-ups, etc. But there’s a lot of variety to be had here—experiment and see what you can come up with.
Create Multiple Layouts with Mode Shifting
Steam Controller Configuration Guide
For the left and right triggers, the main left and right touchpads, the thumbstick, and the A/B/X/Y buttons, there’s an extra option that isn’t available to the other buttons on the controller: Mode Shifting. The Mode Shift function is something that’s assigned to a separate button that can change the layout and functions of the rest of the controller.
So, say you’re playing a game that uses a first-person shooter setup with flyable vehicles, like Battlefield, and you want standard north and south look controls while on foot but you want inverted joystick-style controls while flying a plane. Nuance omnipage 18 download. https://supernalnic889.weebly.com/sim-theme-park-mac-download.html. Go into the Joystick menu, set it up for standard input in the main screen, then click “Mode Shifting.” Here you can assign a modified input style to the Joystick Move function, activated with a set Mode Shift button—again, the rear bumper buttons are ideal for this kind of operation. In the new menu for the Mode Shift operation, click “Additional Settings” and set the Invert Vertical Axis option to “On.” Now, when you press the Mode Shift button you assigned (ideally as you enter a plane), the Y axis on the joystick will invert, and you can press the Mode Shift button again when you return to on-foot controls.
Mode Shifting allows for many, many more combinations of inputs, so long as you have enough buttons available to assign them.
Save and Browse Your Configurations
To save your controller settings for this game (and only this game), return to the main configuration screen and click “Export Config.” Click “Save new personal binding” to create a new profile on your Steam account, accessible from any computer with Steam installed. “Save new local-only binding file” will save it to the current machine only, with no online backup. This menu allows players to shift configurations between their games without having to set up each option again.
Now go back to the main configuration screen and click “Browse Configs.” Here you’ll see Steam’s recommended controller type for this game (it defaults to Xbox-style controls if the game supports them). But what’s really interesting is the “Community” page. Here you’ll see controller configurations uploaded by other Steam users. For popular games, there might be hundreds of option to choose from.
Each configuration includes the Steam name of the player who created it, the total playtime of all players on Steam who use it, and the total number of upvotes it receives when players try the layout and like it. This is a great way to check out some of the Steam Controller settings made by others—who perhaps are more experienced with the advanced features than you are—and further customize it to your liking after you’ve tried it out.